View from the Col de Canadel
The Gulf of Saint Tropez is renowned for its brilliant light. Artists have been flocking to this region for 150 years to capture the sun-kissed hues of pastel villages, azure-blue seas and array of green tones of the Massif des Maures as well as the variety of earthy shades from pale lime to light pink, ochre, purple to sparkling anthracite and everything in between. Winter sunrises and summer sunsets in this corner of the world are simply breathtaking. During the colder months we often get up a little earlier just to have time to enjoy the start of the day with a dramatic symphony of colours that change every morning (we will dedicate a separate article to this).
During the summer it’s all about the sunsets…. The entire Gulf of Saint Tropez is bathed in shades of gold, pale rose, glowing orange and vibrant shades of pinks and crimson. There’s nothing more magical and relaxing than enjoying the end of the day in an exceptional spot for sunset watching. Here is a brief list of some of our favourite places.
Le TIGRR, Ermitage Hotel, Saint Tropez
1. Relish delicious Asian food & take in stunning views at Le TIGrr, Ermitage Hotel, Saint Tropez
This is one of our favourite restaurants in Saint Tropez, serving a blend of Pan-Asian, Thai, Indochinese and Japanese gourmet food in an historical setting. Le TIGrr recently underwent the most incredible Fellini-inspired renovation at the hands of artists Laure Gonzales and André Saraiva. Others who helped to turn this boutique hotel into a sexy lair include Jean Pigozzi, Christian Louboutin, Cloé Sevigny and Olivier Zahm. Originally a private family residence built in
Le TIGRR, Ermitage Hotel, Saint Tropez
the 1800s, it became a hotel at the beginning of the 20th century. To preserve its authenticity, the façade and shutters have been left in their original state and the inside has been completely transformed while retaining its art-deco feel. The bar is a triumph and a must-see for anyone who likes a bit of vintage-inspired eye candy. Offering a creative selection of unusual cocktails, it’s home to their resident DJ who serves up funky, chilled tunes during the sunset service moving to more dance style tracks as the evening progresses, for wild nights under the stars. The hugely popular Karaoke night happens every Thursday, so remember to book early if that is your thing. The incredible view from the terrace was one of the reasons why the original residence was converted to a hotel in the first place. You can see all of Saint Tropez set out before you including
the famous Citadel. The town’s pastel-coloured houses are surrounded by turquoise waters in the backdrop. This truly picturesque setting is even more exceptional during sunset when the entire vista glows in warm shades and on clear, summer nights the sky is bathed in powdery pink once the sun goes down. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, yet elegant – the perfect place to celebrate special occasions. You can also stay in one of the 23 uniquely designed rooms to ensure the magic of Hotel Ermitage lasts a bit longer.
View from the Col de Canadel
2. Have a picnic overlooking the bay at Col du Canadel, Rayol Canadel sur Mer
This is a special spot with the most glorious views over the bay of Rayol Canadel sur Mer. If you come from the direction of La Mole you will arrive after a steep incline. Driving this narrow winding road isn’t for the faint hearted as it curves its way up through the Forest of the Maures. After being immersed in virtually untouched wilderness as you carefully navigate your way up the hill, you’re
rewarded at the Col de Canadel by the most spectacular views of the bay, stretching out towards the Île du Levant and the Mediterranean horizon. You can either park the car and go for a hike before sunset or just find a nice spot, spread your blanket and enjoy your picnic and a glass of local rosé whilst savouring the sunset. The descent on the other side is equally spectacular. An evening swim will refresh you during the last of the daylight. When our children were little, they aptly named the beach at Rayol Canadel ‘crystal clear’ as the water literally sparkles with silvery minerals in the sunlight.
3. Sip an apero at the Sailors’ Bar, Hôtel Sube, Saint Tropez
The bar on the first floor of Hôtel Sube feels steeped in nautical history. An idyllic spot to enjoy the sunset in the midst of the bustling port of Saint Tropez. The sailor’s bar with its beautiful art-deco interior boasts a wonderful petite balcony overlooking the entire port. Many celebrities and other well-known people have sat there over the past 200 years taking in the view and the sunset. Hôtel Sube started out as a Coaching Inn in the early 19th century. It changed owners and names frequently over the decades while retaining the spirit of the sailor’s bar. It’s a place where people from all kinds of backgrounds meet in a relaxed but vibrant atmosphere. Some of the better-known writers to have stayed there include Alexandre Dumas, author of ‘The Three Musketeers’ and ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’
as well as Guy Maupassant who described the hotel in his novel ‘Sur l’Eau’ where he nicknamed it ‘Hôtel du Bailli de Suffren’ (after the statue erected by the Marquis Alban Martin de Roquebrune). Other frequent clientele included Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, who lived and worked in Saint Tropez for several decades as well as the poet Guillaume Apollinaire. Orson Welles famously painted a scene of Les Bravades from his balcony. Famous artists such as Paul Signac, Charles Camoin and Henri Manguin often visited the bar, finding inspiration for many of their works. Enjoy an apéro and some delicious tapas at this iconic spot. The menu is varied, including some vegan options. It’s also a fabulous spot for breakfast.
The balcony at the Sailors’ Bar, Hotel Sube
Pleine des Maures, Le Cannet Des Maures (photo by Clement Blin www.clementblin.net)
4. Wander through the Plaine des Maures and have dinner at Ultimate Provence
The Plaine des Maures is a gorgeous National Park of rare wilderness reminiscent of the plains of Africa due to its unique flora and fauna. It’s especially beautiful in the spring when the wild orchids are flowering. Framed to the north and west by limestone hills and in the south and east by the northern ridges of the Massif des Maures this unique landscape is home to exceptional
biodiversity in the Mediterranean region. This diverse landscape includes Parasol Pine Trees, Oak groves, scrublands, pink sandstone slabs, wild meadows, temporary ponds & streams and two lakes. It’s a favourable environment for a number of species including some endangered ones such as the endemic Hermann’s tortoise. A variety of hiking, mountain bike and horse-riding trails of varied length and difficulty meander through the area. One of our favourites is the Lac des Escarcets loop. It’s worth reading a bit more about the different options especially if you’re planning to watch the sunset from here. It’s a unique spot to enjoy it but it’s best to leave yourself enough time to make it back to your car before it gets dark. It wasn’t fun when we had to find our way back to our car with our kids after sunset!
Port Grimaud
5. Stroll around Port Grimaud and enjoy pre-dinner drinks
Port Grimaud is the first residential seaside development of its kind in Europe and the brainchild of architect François Spoerry. All the buildings here originally date from the 1960’s and it’s strictly forbidden to alter anything aside from painting the façades in the permitted colours. Every fisherman’s house, as they’re referred to, has its own mooring space and they’re all painted in a
multitude of pastels which look so charming against the Palm trees and Mediterranean shrubs with their beautiful flowers. While it may not be the best place to view the actual sunset, (it can be seen looking back over the hills), Port Grimaud looks particularly lovely at this time of day. At sunset, this tranquil port city without cars, particularly out of season, is bathed in different shades of glowing pinks and oranges. After a little stroll why not enjoy an
aperitif or even stay for dinner? Port Grimaud is home to a good selection of
restaurants, bistros & bars as well as several good ice-cream parlours. Café Frigale is a lovely casual place with delicious food and fair prices. Lily’s is another casual option with many healthy choices.
View from the inland pathway between Gigaro & Brouis
6. Walk from Plage de Gigaro to swim at Place de Brouis, La Croix Valmer
This is one of our favourite combinations. Park at Plage de Gigaro and head to Plage de Brouis in either of two ways. You can walk directly along the sea front via the Sentier du Littoral, or you can take the in-land route, still with beautiful sea views but less busy and with a wider, more comfortable pathway. Better still, go one way and come back the other! Plage de Brouis is less
known than Gigaro as you can’t reach it by car. The beach has lovely fine sand, crystal clear water and is surrounded by lush greenery. Time it so that you’re walking back during sunset. Simply gorgeous! Once you’re back at Gigaro why not visit Marius a la Plage* for dinner? The tables are directly on the beach and there’s always a lovely atmosphere. They have a wonderful, great value vegan bowl. *check opening times in the winter